| |
Mandalay and around
Mandalay
 The
centre of arid Upper Burma, Mandalay is the country´s
2nd largest city and has approximately 1,2 million
inhabitants. The restoration of the legendary “Burma
Road” a few years ago (linking Mandalay via Lashio with
Yunnan in southern China) made the city on the
Ayeyarwady river a recent boom town. How different the
situation in the year 1886 which saw the end of Burma´s
traditional dynastic society. Having defeated the
Burmese a third and last time during their enduring
hostilities, the British dethroned King Thibaw and
exiled the unfortunate monarch and his entourage to
India. Burma was off on its long and arduous journey
through its Age of Colonialism – eventually to be reborn
as Myanmar in our modern time. Numerous religious
monuments bear testimony to Mandalay´s royal past – the
most important being the Mahamuni Temple, home of the
famous Golden Buddha. Further highlights are the
Shwenandaw Monastery with its abundant ornate teakwood
carvings and gilded interiors, the huge Marble Buddha or
the Kuthodaw Pagoda, called “biggest book on earth” due
to its great number of stone slabs grazed with Buddhist
sutras, the most important Mahamuni temple with a huge
Buddha made of gold – all are of great cultural
importance. Mandalay Hill affords the best view of the
city, also revealing the shell of the former Royal
Palace: behind sumptuous brick walls looms an empty
space once home to the legendary “Crystal Palace” with
its more than 100 teakwood buildings which went up in
flames when bombs hit Burma during World War II. No
doubt: The great tradition of Burma´s arts and crafts is
in Mandalay.
Amarapura
Another royal centre beyond the gates
of Mandalay, Amarapura is known today for its stone
works ranging from Buddha statues to trinkets, from
works of art to trash as well as for its silk
manufacturing. Several old pagodas and monasteries,
mostly painted white – among others the Mahagandayon
monastery with more than 1000 monks – provoke an
enchanting atmosphere and remind us of its former
importance. Another of Amarapura´s treasures is U Bein,
the world´s longest teakwood bridge, partly made of
ancient wood trunks taken from the long destroyed palace
– especially at sundown a wonderful site for romantic
photos.
Sagaing
 If
one follows the road from Mandalay to Amarapura for a
few kilometres, he comes across the town of Sagaing.
Following the fall of the Bagan dynasty who lost the
fight against the Mongols of the Khans about 700 years
ago, Sagaing became the worldly and religious centre of
the Shan people. Numerous pagodas and temples were built
and used as centres of meditation, even to this day! The
one and only (railroad-) bridge spanning the Ayeyarwady
is to be seen shortly before entering Sagaing, a nice
photo opportunity for many visitors (which is not
cherished by the Burmese authorities!). The so-called
look out-pagodas afford a lovely view of the pagodas at
sunset.
Inwa / Ava
Today
a Buddhist open air-museum, however, after the fall of
Bagan 700 years ago Inwa – the former Ava (meaning
“mouth of the lake”) – was Upper Burma´s capital and has
since undergone a sea of change. Inwa lies a few
kilometers south of Amarapura near the Ava bridge. We
cross the river Mytinge in a small boat and are expected
– appropriately – on the other side by horse-drawn
carriages for the short ride to the temples and wooden
monasteries.
Mingun
 It
takes only one hour by boat upstream the Ayeyarwady and
we reach the imposing remnants of the largest Buddhist
Pagoda ever built. Alas, the project was never
completed. At the beginning of the 19th century, mighty
King Bodawpaya decreed the building of the highest
pagoda on earth. However, financial exhaustion as well
as the lack of wood necessary for the production of
bricks cut short his project. A mighty earthquake did
the rest – it tumbled this memorial to religious hybris
– yet the leftovers of the failed attempt at gigantism
are impressive enough. They did, after all, succeed in
casting the biggest sounding bronze bell on this planet!
Of special attraction: the pagodas Settawaya and
Myatheindan. Entering and leaving Mandalay harbour is
always an opportunity for outstanding snapshots.
Pyin Oo Lwin / Maymyo
During the scorching hot season,
Mandalay´s British Colonials and their ladies retreated
to Maymyo only 70 kilometres distance from Mandalay. The
town at 1000 m above sea level was heaven! Named Pyin Oo
Lwin today, we visit this pretty town by horse-drawn
carriages and enjoy the treasures of its colonial past,
including the Botanical Gardens.
Monywa
This
place is a must for the culture buff! It takes a little
time to make this overnight excursion, but it is well
worth the while. A 140 km drive in NW direction brings
us to Monywa sprawling along the Chindwin River. En
route: Visit of the pagodas of Thanbodday – a Hollywood
fantasy specialist could have been godfather here – but
see for yourself (without fail!). The true highlights of
our Monywa excursion are the Buddhist cave temples of
Powindaung, an artistic jewel among spiritually inspired
building (wall paintings, Buddha galleries, rock
carvings) dating back to the 14th till 16th centuries.
Powingdaung takes its name from the alchemist U Powin
who lived in this mountainous region hundreds of years
ago. In order to reach the caves we have to cross the
Chindwin river by boat, from there onward pickups take
us on an approx. 1 hour´s drive to the site. Make
provisions for spending the night at Monywa. Bone
fragments, traces of ancient settling and reaching way
back to mankind ´s early days, have been found in the
nearby mountains of Pontaung Ponnya. And for those
aficionados of real trekking and elephant rides through
monsoon forests, there is possibly another rewarding
destination: the Alaundaw Kathapa National Park 100 km
NW of Monywa.
Mogok
Welcome
to “ruby country”! 200 kilometres N of Mandalay we reach
Mogok and its world of rubies and sapphires. It is hard
to imagine the drudgery of the migrant workers´ life as
they attempt to wrest those precious stones from the
womb of the earth. The Open-Air Ruby Market affords the
pleasure of hunting for your own “lucky stone”. At the
centre of town you will find Lake Mogok. The surrounding
hills offer a marvellous view, especially of Chanthargyi
Pagoda.
|
|
